Clarksdale, MS. Home of the blues. Future home of Kelsi Smith. Seriously. I want to live here. Or at least "sometimes" live here. If it's good enough for Morgan Freeman, it's good enough for me. Plus property is like, $20K…
We were in Clarksdale less than 24 hours, but it's the kind of place that you'd practically be a local in under a week. It's charming, welcoming and even on it's quietest night – there was something going on. Live blues in a bakery – vegetarian food in an organic café, blues and beer in an old commissary. Monday's are their slow night.
We kicked off our night at the Oxbow Café. We were told it's the best, if not only, vegetarian restaurant in town and happened to be the only restaurant open on Monday's. We walked in and were welcomed by a big sign that said "vegetarian? let us know" – so we did, and the chef immediately offered us up a plethora of custom options.
Mr Style opted for veggie tacos and I opted for homemade pimento grilled cheese. Both were ridiculously good. I still salivate to think on that grilled cheese. The café also served local beer – and even had my new favourite Abita Strawberry. Perfection. The manager at Shack Up Inn, who recommended the place, was also dining there – and I don't think it was because it was the only restaurant open in town :)
We had a wander around the town – which was mostly shut up thanks to our Monday night timing – but it was an interesting place – that I look forward to returning to. We weren't quite ready to head to bed for the night, so we headed to Hopson Commissary – on the grounds of the Hopson Plantation – where the Shack Up Inn also is.
There we drank more beer from Lazy Magnolia Brewery, caught the tail end of a set and were regailed with story's from the bartender on Clarksdale history (another Tenessee Williams spot!) and a local musician, who apparently wrote lyrics for and was sampled on a Wiz Khalifa record, gave us his life story.
Clarksdale is most famous for being the birthplace of the blues and the crossroads of the blues. Where Highways 61 (The Blues Highway – New Orleans – Memphis) and 49 meet – The Devils Crossroads where Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil to play the blues. Of course we had to stop by for a photo op.
We also stopped by for more of these…
Next time Clarksdale. Next time.