It's that time again folks, fashion weeks are popping up all over the world, and whilst my mind is set on Fall trends, and whilst I have every intention of walking you all through them over the next couple of weeks, the runways are showing Spring.
Below are my top ten collections from the New York runways, some old favourites like Peter Som and Anna Sui are present, and some new favourites such as Tibi and J. Mendel have me equally excited. So here we go..Spring 2011 from New York folks!
Yep, officially obsessed with Tibi. Having been lucky enough to adorn myself in a Tibi dress mere weeks ago I found myself excited to check out what they had on offer for Spring. Love, love, love. The palette, the fabrics and the girly girly silhouettes, circle skirts with loafers? One might think Tibi's designer, Amy Smilovic, is designing for me… especially with her comment on the women she designs for, women who "don't want to look like they live at Urban Outfitters, but don't want to look like they live at Bergdorf's, either."
That'd be me then Amy, please dress me. Thanks.
I was a bit worried about this very neutral palette we're seeing a lot of for Spring/Summer, whilst I like a pretty pale dress for the summer months it was beginning to feel like overkill, and then J. Mendel soared in like a breath of fresh air. Beautifully lightweight and sheer, delicate pleating and draping in the prettiest barely there colours possible. The collection felt both ballerina and grecian inspired. I loved the pops of hot coral in the matching Louboutins and lips, and I can't wait to DIY some grosgrain ribbon, ankle ties immediately!
(For the record I just wrote this and then discovered Gilles Mendel had spent the summer designing for the NYC Ballet! – Clearly inspired!)
Ah Milly, you and your feminine whimsy. I love this bohemian, eclectic, artistic princess vibe that you just excel at. The prints the colour, the perfectly clashed separates, with the chunkiest of jewelry. This is Milly at it's finest, yay for artsy, messy librarian, world traveller types and the designers that create them.
Peter Som plays with colour like no other designer and for the past two seasons he has made it into my New York Top Ten because of this. The vibrancy of his collection for Spring/Summer 2011 is unparalleled and as always Som manages to pull off saccharine girly shades and silhouettes without appearing juvenile.
Erin Fetherston, was, well, Erin Fetherston, but fortunately for me I love her, so not a problem.
The collection had a South of France, tropical vacation vibe (I'm thinking wealthy travellers – the type with a yacht, but not the Miami type) and the crisp white suiting was reminiscent of Bianca Jaggers' infamous white suit. The two neutral dresses pictured above are outstanding, simple and yet interesting in a completely flattering cut. I also have to tip my hat (pun intended) to Eugenia Kim for providing the stunning white safari hats. I would like one ta very much.
Spring/Summer 2011 Marchesa is simply sensational. The the froths of fabric, the folds, the origami-esque pleating, the layers, the tulle, the lace, the beading…oh the drama!
Marchesa stayed true to themselves with jaw dropping red carpet worthy gowns (Chloe Sevigny needs to wear the short one that's basically a ball of frothy tulle, and let's see Sandra Bullock in one of these dramatic gowns) but what was so so interesting to me were the Indian and Thai inspired pieces, I loved the harem panted jumpsuits and the insane beading, lacework and headpieces (pictured above) What I'd give for the chance to wear one of these gowns.
Suno, who our team profiled for N.E.E.T Magazine a few months ago, are an eco friendly, sustainable and fair trade design house, sourcing their fabrics from Kenya. In previous collections the Kenyan colours, styles and inspiration have been undeniable but for Spring/Summer 2011, whilst the inspiration remains, the collection has taken on a more whimsical, feminine style. The mix of ditsy floral prints and bright batik style cloth (complete with amazing matching, laced platforms made in conjunction with Loeffler Randal) create beautiful, interesting and wearable garments that are simply exquisite.
Anna Sui produces, season after season, clothes I want to wear, immediately. This time around she has forgone her circus/military undertones and gone with the full blown bohemian styling, reminiscent and apparently inspired by, the infamous girls of 60's. Laurel Canyon, California.
The mix of prairie styling, 30's beading and artistic prints and hankerchief hems create a perfect laid back bohemian look that borders on costumey. But strike the perfect balance, not too many flowers, not too many feathers – or just add the right attitude, and this look can be pulled with ease.
I always love ADAM's tom-boyish vibe, it's cute it's preppy, but it's never androgyness, it's defintely built for girls. I absolutely adore the 70's styling, high waists, wide legs, camel, denim and white, gorgeous. I am entirely enamoured with the broderie anglaise dress (something we've seen a lot of thus far for Spring/Summer 2011) paired with the cropped tuxedo jacket – and the tops knots? Fab. Stylish, chic perfection, nothing like "done undone" and ADAM does it too well.
Last but certainly not least (and should be noted that these have been presented in no particular in order) is the Jolly Rancher colour fest that is Alexandre Herchcovitch.
The collection began with monochromatic looks (as far as matching shoes, to dress, to lipstick to sunglasses) moved to geometric patterns, in fantastic colour blocking all the way over to the paint splattered looks in muted brights, which isn't as oxymoronic as it sounds. The vibrancy was peppered with the occasional look in shiny black gloss, again with matching shoes, lipstick, sunglasses and even hair.
This collection was perfectly curated and superbly executed, and whilst one couldn't walk off the runway in this head to toe look (well at least I couldn't!) these dresses are fabulous with their voluminous sleeves and vibrant colourations, so so fun.
All images via Style.com.
Graphics & Words: Kelsi Smith.
Okay. I am officially obsessed with j. mendel now. So gorgeous, so pretty, so up my alley!!
Amy Smilovic, the woman behind Tibi, knows women’s bodies. And, judging from her designs, loves the hell out of them. Her models had simple ponytails, a clean face and a berry lip. Nothing to distract from the clothes, which were wearable to the extreme: flattering for any body type, unique and the type of dress that will last a lifetime.