(Left to right: Aquilano.Rimondi, Bottega Veneta, Marni, Salvatore Ferragamo)
Oh Milano, sei così bella per me.Ti amo. Seriously. I have always had a natural affinity with Italy, having lived and work there for a short time, and Milan is a vibrant and beautiful city. So it's no surprise to me that Milan produces such amazing collections, season after season. The following are musings of my own regarding the Milan Fall/Winter collections. Followed by Sarah Corley, Bria Berger and Carly Doogan, interestingly enough on this round-up you'll actually see some differences of opinion unlike previous shows!
Many of the Milan catwalks exuded a luxe, richness so perfectly Italian, rich colours, and fabrics. So much texture and deep deep vibrancy of colour. My favourite collections had a playfulness about them, full of character…the character being the gorgeous geek or quirky librarian. Salvatore Ferragamo sent menswear inspired short suits down the catwalk in the thick tweeds and even leather. High lighted with metallics and accessorized with Oxfords and short socks… I adored this collection very forties collegiate, a little preppy, a little geek chic and a lot of fab.
I've always said if I could wear only one label for the rest of my life it would be Marni, and this seasons collection, whilst not one of my favourites from Marni was really no exception. Fantastic colour blocking, again in vibrant and rich colours, again we say texture and again it's geek-chic down to the short stockings, which were beautiful. I loved the styling and could completely see this collection being broken down to a more wearable level.
There were even more tweeds, plaids and boucle (!) in a variety of colours at Aquilano.Rimondi. So much texture I wanted to reach through the pictures and touch. That librarian feel was there again, as well as the separates I loved so much in New York. I adored the range of colours that all manage to compliment each other despite being on a wide spectrum. I particularly liked the muted pastel palette and in particular this feather skirt and cardigan combo in the very first picture.
Bottega Veneta presented a collection that seemed, not so cohesive, I was not a fan of the thin plastic looking leather, it just looked cheap, I could also have done without the dull draped jersey, it was quite lack-lustre. I did however love their chiffon, lightweight gowns that still retained some interesting structure. The hard/soft juxtaposition was interesting and redeemed the rest of the collection in my eyes.
Sigh, wow, huh…OMG. Yes I will manage to muster up real adjectives shortly. All of the above were beautiful but Alberta Ferretti's collection was absolutely breathtakingly outstanding. The detail, the fabrics…it was all so dreamy, the ruching, the beading, the fringing, the colour palette from the barely there blush pink to the soft black. There was not a piece I this collection that I would not wear, given the opportunity, and given the dress, I would certainly find the opportunity. It's was an exquisite frothy, feminine collection that whilst retaining utter girlishness it never got sickly sweet. It's actually quite difficult for me to form words about how much I love this collection, not something I usually have a problem with!
At this point from all the collections we have seen in all the cities thus far…Alberta Ferretti's is my favourite of the season. I should probably leave it at that…my rambling is annoying me.
If anyone wants to send me to Milan next season I'll be there in a heart beat. Italy has my heart and my future wardrobe. Fino a quando la prossima volta il mio amore.
(Pictured left to right: Albino, Versus, Marni, D&G)
With cities like Rome and Venice, Italy often stands for romance in
many minds. As Italy’s fashion capital, Milan delivers this feeling of
Italian romance through gorgeous collections from major labels that
include Prada, Versace, and Giorgio Armani at fashion week. Despite the
current excitement for spring fashions and weather, the recent week of
shows, previewing fall, leaves fashion followers in love with clothing
prospects for our next autumn and winter.
Even though Milan’s charm encourages a love affair with numerous (if not all) designers, two labels especially stole my heart.
Right
away, Albino stands out through interesting prints, delicate bows, and
pretty silhouettes. With dark lines outlining bright shapes of color,
the printed fabrics in the collection appear to be inspired by stained
glass windows. There are even some solid color looks mixed within which
borrow colors from the gorgeous prints, making for seamless transitions
between looks. Each outfit is so finely executed that anticipation for
the next look runs high.
As the casual line from well-known
designers Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana, D&G’s fall
collection is one created with the fashionable skier in mind. Filled
with fun sweaters, warm boots, and chiffon fabrics, every look could be
worn during a winter retreat to Colorado, New Mexico, or even
Switzerland (if you are that lucky). The sweaters draw interest with
geometric shapes and mountain animals within the knits, but it is
especially intriguing to see D&G present sweater jumpsuits,
dresses, vests, and boots. Offering such a variety of ways to wear
sweater knits creates excitement for bundling up to fight the snow. Oh,
and by the way, actually skiing is not required when wearing this
collection, but wearing will most likely put you in the mood.
Apart from Albino and D&G, Marni and Versus were high on my
list. With some models sporting thick-rimmed glasses, knee-high socks,
geometric and floral prints, or loose-fitting garments, Marni presented
a collection that could be called “The Hip Librarian.” Versus, on the
other hand, played with printed t-shirts, high-waist circle skirts, and
chiffon accents, making for a beautiful combination. (Editors Note: Versus was sooo hip – I loved it – Kx)
Milan, you were good to us!
(From Left to Right: Armani, Dolce and Gabbana, Dsquared², Pucci)
Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall 2010 collection definitely took the inspiration of underwear as outerwear seriously, as some models simply wore suit jackets with no pants! Lingerie was all over the runway, as was corset-style boning and structure. Black and cream were the main colors of the show, with some jewel tones like emerald and ruby thrown in for good measure. I fell in love with the black bubble dress that featured velvet floral accents and I also loved model’s eclectic headphones – what a quirky, fun, accessory! Also in, were big chunky knits, animal prints, polka dots and long socks.
Dsquared²’s show was high on glamour and looked like it came straight out of a Beyonce music video. Rich fabrics like fur (yet again) and leather made the show feel incredibly luxurious, while thigh-high boots and leggings in black and red made the model’s mile-long legs pop! Big accessories like necklaces, rings and sunglasses made a statement, but I loved the more delicate half-gloves, brooches and the strange but intriguing vein-like detailing on some of the cocktail dresses (Editors Note: This was so reminiscent of the costumes at the end of 'All That Jazz' one of my favourite films – Kx) Very unique and somewhat of a refreshing break from the oversized furs.
Pucci is known for their playful patterns and their show did not disappoint. The maxi dresses and geometric patterns came off as the sort of thing a very sophisticated hippie would wear. I loved the scarves, the intricate textures and the indigo patterns, but some of his transparent minidresses missed the mark for me and felt a bit tacky. The show was very minimalist as accessories go; besides the odd bangle here and there, the models mostly went jewelry free, and their hair and makeup was simple, sporting middle parts, loose layers and pale lips.
Armani filled the show with chic separates, including pleated skirts and textured jackets. Unlike a lot of the other shows, the models legs were mostly bare, which is a bit out of the ordinary for a Fall show! All of the models sported short bobs and the necklaces were collar like – thick and asymmetrical. I loved the subtle feminine detailing of the A-line skirts and rosette details, but I was not a fan of the oversized earrings and thick black bangles. Armani’s collection definitely seemed the most wearable of the four I reviewed, because what woman doesn’t love sophisticated yet feminine suit separates for every day wear? Count me in any day. : )
(Left-right: Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli, Gabriele Colangelo, Francesco Scognamiglio)
I was highly unimpressed with the majority of what was shown in Milan. Everything seemed a bit beige. Nothing had a personality, or at least a personality I found to be attractive and pleasing. I don’t mean to write so negatively about Milan, but I am finding it so difficult to find anything I like throughout the collections. I felt there was brilliant potential in a lot of the collections, such as the prints used in the Albino show. But everything seemed thrown together without a thought. I understand that sometimes this thrown-together look is so very thought about, but it really did just seem the ran out of time to style the shows correctly.
Aesthetically and as a whole collection, I found the Roberto Cavalli show my favourite. The Cavalli collection had a very boho theme, and hidden amongst the scarves and swags, were some beautiful dresses and single pieces. It was the only collection I felt worked. Everything felt a bit different and uncomfortable. Cavalli is known for his animal prints in his collections, but even these were faded, hidden and ‘worn’. I think he stepped out of his comfort zone for the AW1011 season, and tried something a little more modern and more for-the-masses than normal. Maybe this is why I feel so negatively about his collection, as I usually adore everything he does, because there is some much beauty and decadence in his work, that I’m just disappointed that it is not what I am used to seeing. Maybe I need to step out of my comfort zone!
Throughout a lot of designers’ collections, there were still hints of out favourite SS10 trends, particularly underwear and outerwear, but a little more subtle than SS10. And there was one piece in the Dolce and Gabbana collection I adored. It features all of the things I like; sheer fabrics, feminine silhouette and lingerie!
After so long of not enjoying collections, I started to dissect outfits and look at them as X amount of pieces, and surprisingly I was impressed by the Francesco Scognamiglio collection. The silhouette was something I find attractive, and there were some really interesting pieces in this collection. Embellishment seemed to be thought about, and not to over-the-top. And out of all the collections, I think this would be one I would actually be happy to purchase pieces of.
Gabriele Colangelo was also a surprise find. Again, dissecting outfits in to pieces, I found some beautiful pieces. I loved the colour palette of the collection, and there seemed to be a lot of texture and interesting fabrics used; something I think that is important in AW collections.
I do apologise for my negativity, but I felt it better to be honest, than to lie. After all, you read DFOF for our opinions, right? So that is what you have gotten; my true, honest opinion.
(All pictures from Style.com)